So, my first camping adventure, Shenandoah National Park. Arriving here by car reminded me of the view on the way to Jajome back in PR, except at an outrageously epic scale and containing 300% more deer. I could not believe what I was seeing outside the window. America means a lot of different things to different people, but we can all agree that it is fucking enormous.
The park is specifically designed for scenic driving, consisting of a single winding road stretching for about 105 miles, with 4 main campgrounds alongside it and miles and miles of backcountry between them. Scattered through the road are dozens of overlooks that just keep hammering you in the face with greatness as you drive along. It is absolute driving bliss.
No more than 10 minutes into it I notice some cars stopped ahead of me, and people are looking out their windows and sticking cameras out. Right next to the road, a mama bear with three little cubs strolling around on some Disney shit. I knew then this place was the goods. I tried taking a picture, but the attempt was pretty futile. They had already scurried in a bit into the forest, so all you get is an ambiguous dark spot:

I couldn’t decide which of the 4 campgrounds to stay at so I chose the one that seemed the most low key, Lewis Mountain. I wasn’t thrilled with it at first, since it didn’t seem backwoods enough and tents were pretty close to each other. But the other 2 nearest campgrounds were each 25 miles away, and I wanted to hike at least one trail before the sun came down, so I said fuck it and pitched camp:

…then took off to check out a nearby trail that promised a bit of bouldering and even more gigantic views. At this time some clouds had started to roll in, and some rain started to drizzle, but all was good because I was outfitted with a magical plastic poncho that deflects water spells. Here’s some of what I saw:



Click on that thin 360° panorama image above to see it in much larger size. It was pretty breathtaking.
I headed back and decided to catch a quick power nap before making myself some dinner. I sleep for a bit, wake up, and realize I must’ve been pretty fucking exhausted, cause 5 hours had passed and it was now 1 AM. I looked out my tent and the entire camp was completely shut down, not a single sound or light anywhere. Well, too fucking bad, cause I gotta eat.
I grab my headlamp and start setting up some stuff at the foot of the tent, and before long I had a hearty bowl going. It was at this point that I hear steps in the darkness in front of me. I look up, the headlamp shines ahead, and I proceed to shit my pants.
You know how in cartoons, when they show a spooky forest, there’s a bunch of evil eyes of different sizes glowing among the bushes?
Well folks, that’s not just in the cartoons. In front of me, right beyond the headlamp’s reach, were 7-8 pairs of eyes of different sizes staring at me, all joined in the singular effort of scaring the living fuck out of me. You know, I did my homework. I read the campground instruction manual. I was aware of the wildlife around here and had taken every precaution and followed every direction for how to not get eaten by a large mammal. Yet, here I was, about to get my shit ruined by a pack of bears. With rabies.
I gently covered my bowl and put it away from the tent, then went back and grabbed a more powerful flashlight. The light from that one cleared up a lot of things. One, it was not bears, but a pack of deer (actually called a herd of deer, but that sounds gay so it’s a pack), and two, deer in the dark are still scary as fuck. To get an idea of what they looked like, watch the first minute of this video, and then multiply what you see by 8. So, while I was pretty relieved that I would not get eaten, I was still pretty spooked by the fucking evil demon deer outside my tent. They moved on pretty quickly, and I finished off my meal.
I was supposed to only stay one night, and then leave early the next morning to get to NYC on schedule. After all the awesome shit I’d seen so far, I wasn’t sure that was gonna happen. I decided to sleep it on it and decide in the morning.
It took me about 7 seconds upon waking up to say fuck NYC and stay an extra day here. However even though the previous night’s encounter was pretty fucking terrifying, I was extremely gripped and wanted to go a little crazier. I headed to one of the camp offices to get myself a backcountry permit. I wanted to literally camp in the middle of the fucking forest, no cars, no other tents, no restrooms, no kids on Razor scooters (who the fuck brings that to a campground?), no dogs under leash law looking miserable, nothing. Just me and the forest.
The ranger at the desk helped me pick out something nice that wouldn’t kill me hiking… since I was taking that extra day, it would mean getting up extra early and hiking BACK the following morning for a crazy long drive to NY. Found an area about 2.5 miles into the forest, next to a stream with cascades, and said hell yeah. Got my permit and off I went to stake out my spot.
It was here that I kinda regretted buying a shit backpack at Wal-Mart that’s geared towards carrying clothes and only vaguely looks outdoorsy. I had to work some magic with bungee cords and straps in order to attach the sleeping bag, lantern, and other essentials, and the result was workable if not dicey. In the end I carried a ton of shit that I probably didn’t need, but you live, you learn. Besides rain starting to pour pretty heavily, the hike down wasn’t too bad, but I was a bit concerned about how much it was gonna suck to hike back up, cause it was a rather steep 2.5 miles and my shit was heavy.
Eventually I passed the marker cascades and started looking around for flat areas. I found a spot that looked too good to be true and looked around, and surely enough that was it. It had signs of frequent use, like clearings, pre-felled trees, and a badly concealed shitting area about 100 yards down. I set up camp immediately:


This is for Bob, who has been incessantly insisting that I need to get a bear bag, yet refusing to believe that I would remember to buy one:

AQUIIII esta tu bear bag, cabron.
No sooner had I set up that I realized that people had been here much more recently than I thought, cause the assholes had thrown out a bunch of roasted peppers and strawberries nearby. Might as well put a neon arrow pointing to my tent saying EAT THIS HUMAN. So I spent a few minutes clearing out the gross half decomposed food, which reminded me that I needed to attend to the Ginodoll. I left him alone far away in the cold, but with the help of some beef jerky, I made sure he would find some company at some point in the night:

Next, instead of coming back the trail I came from, I took an alternate route to my car that was quite a bit longer, but that turned out to be more gentle in slope than the entrance route. Got myself a hearty dinner up at a lodge, then headed back down to camp when it got dark, a pretty scary headlamp-assisted journey in on-and-off rain. I was rather disappointed to find that on the way up and back down, someone else had dropped in and set up a tent a few yards away. Nevertheless, I was so tired and cold and wet from the rain I just wanted to rest… I had a single beer I had brought with me, then I put all the smelly stuff in the bear bag and passed out. No crazy animal incidents that night.
Next morning I pack my bags, check and pick up the Ginodoll (sad to say, untouched by wildlife) then proceed to nearly destroy my leg muscles trying to hike back up with all my shit. The numerous breathers I had to take ended up being great moments to soak in my surroundings though, it really is like a storybook forest out there. Thankfully, half the trail back up was a gently sloping (but fucking interminable) fire road made for cars that was much easier on the calves than the regular trail. Got back to the car, spent a solid hour doing another round of car tetris, and finally took off for a mad scramble up to NYC.
On the way out however, I caught another young bear by the side of the road, and caught a much better but still pretty disappointing flick of it:

Tremendous experience at Shenandoah. I have a feeling I’m gonna have the camping and outdoors bug going strong for a while.
As always, a lot more pictures on flickr.
















































